From the very beginnings of her design career Vivienne Westwood has experimented with the laws of traditional tailoring. In her first Worlds End collection ‘Pirates’ 1981, she created the ‘Squiggle shirt’, its unique draped shape created by moving the neck hole from the traditional centre to slightly off side and moving the seams to the back of the garment. Ever since Vivienne has worked with asymmetry and draping in every collection, it became her trademark. She used different sized sleeves one longer than the other, rows of buttons could run diagonal or up the sides, oversized shirts and dresses like the ‘Arabesque Dress’ wrapped the body – avoiding traditional back or side seams. Details of the garments were contorted; collars designed to look as if they could fall off at any minute, the arms pushed through the wrist slit rather than the cuff.  Vivienne wanted everything to look spontaneous, that dressing required no effort.

In the AW04/05 ‘Exhibition’ collection a fundamental design feature was created, the placing of two pieces of cloth at opposing angles on top of each other, creating a draped effect on the outer layer. Moving to focus upon how the fabric worked against the body. The cutting was freer in form, using curves and angles to explore the natural dynamic of the fabric, as done originally in ‘Pirates’. Look carefully and no 00’s Gold Label collection after this is without a hint of the quirky, ‘drunken’ style.  It is used in tailored garments such as the ‘Beelzebub’ jacket and ‘Drunken’ trousers and shirts, in suiting, in denim and even in bags.

‘I’m not interested in tailoring, but in the pull and push of the garment against the body’ Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne has always encouraged us to ‘Do it Yourself’ and the Drunken shirt is something anyone can easily try out for themselves. Simply take a regular shirt and experiment with missing out every other button hole so you create a ruffled up appearance. Try wearing the sleeves with your hand pulled out of the wrist slit rather than the cuff. You can create different looks with either fitted or a loose shirts, using an old belt to cinch the waist will also allow you to play around with pulling the shirt up in some places and letting the tails hang at opposing angles.

(This is a guest post written by our friend Natalie, read her own blog at www.fashionpearlsofwisdom.co.uk. Top picture shoes Chris wearing the new Worlds End Drunken Trousers, 100% wool, £240.00 available now.)

The things you see here Vivienne has developed especially for Worlds End.  They all have their own story and often are connected to a Gold Label Collection.

Jewellery Pin Set £28, Badge Set £15, Cowboy Hat £145, Baby grows £20, Canvas Belt £65/85

Rocking Horse Ballerina – £375.00
Rocking Horse Golf – £470.00
Rocking Horse Boot – £420.00 (£425 for relaxed leather).
Rocking Horse Baby – £340.00 (£360 for relaxed leather).
Rocking Horse Slave – £320.00
Rocking Horse Crossover – £310.00                                                                                   All handmade in England

“This is my favourite dress, the Shirtwaister. I have it in cherry red too and intend on getting it in the new lipstick pink colour next. I am also wearing my tan Bag boots and Army belt. The blog is a great idea so we can see all the new things at Worlds End. I really like how the Worlds End pieces are only available in the shop, it makes them much more special. I share my own personal style on my blog www.fashionpearlsofwisdom.co.uk and it is great that other fans can now share how they style things up on here. There is a lot of inspiration. Love to Lisa, Andy and the team.”

Thank you Natalie for sending us your picture. The “Shirtwaister” is by far our most popular dress at Worlds End. The cut is genius; only very few easy-to-wear dresses give you such a silhouette. Try it on when you are in the area next time. Shirtwaister Dress, designed in 2008, available in sizes 10-16, £295.00